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View Full Version : considering Sunray X-1 for the E-Trac



randy
09-21-2010, 09:48 PM
I'm considering the X-1, and have a couple of questions.

First, my understanding from the website is that this is not a do it yourself project, either you have to buy a second upper shaft with the switch mounted, or send in your upper shaft for mounting. Is this correct? If correct, this means that if I thought I might sell it in the future, I should spring for the second shaft, since I won't be able to disassemble it myself. Is that correct? I guess I'm a little unclear on how I would buy it, and what I would be buying, if self-assembly is not possible. (OK, I'm totally clueless :crazy:)

Second, I understand you always get true target id once the probe sees it, even if the original target is iffy. So, if I have may be end of nail, may be deep silver, once I dig to where the probe can see it, it doesn't lie. Is this correct?

I use the Garrett ProPointer, and really like it, but am considering experimenting with the X-1 anyway to see if I like it better. Any recommendations and answers would be helpful.

TIA

Jason in Enid
09-21-2010, 10:07 PM
You will be very happy with an X-1 probe. Yes, spring for the pre-mounted shaft, eliminate all the hassle. Go to the Sun-Ray website. Give them a call and order it direct! You get the same response from the probe as if you were using the coil. that's what makes them so nice! You can switch over to pinpoint mode to help pinpoint in the hole.

RobW
09-22-2010, 09:29 AM
What's the cost of one of those things with a premounted?

randy
09-22-2010, 11:12 AM
What's the cost of one of those things with a premounted?


I think it is about $189 + $40 or so for the pre-mounting on the second shaft. Check the website to be sure. I better get out and dig some clad. lol

coinnut
09-22-2010, 06:30 PM
I think it is about $189 + $40 or so for the pre-mounting on the second shaft. Check the website to be sure. I better get out and dig some clad. lol


Yeah that sounds about right. Plus S/H too. It's not cheap, but I love mine. A couple of things though. Because you have to have the switch soldered in place on the upper shaft, your coil wire no longer goes inside the lower shaft. You have to wrap it around the lower shaft!! But after the switch is mounted on the upper shaft, it has to go back inside the shaft so that you can connect it to the inside of the machine. I don't like the exposed lower wire, but I do like how easy it is to swap coils, since I use a separate lower rod for each coil. Changes them in seconds!!



Second, I understand you always get true target id once the probe sees it, even if the original target is iffy. So, if I have may be end of nail, may be deep silver, once I dig to where the probe can see it, it doesn't lie. Is this correct?



The target ID does work with the probe and very well too. It works better than the original signal only because you are closer to the target when you dig a hole. It is also a 1 mini coil, so it does not false on the iron like the original coil might have. It will null on the iron. Also the depth of the probe is determined directly by the sensitivity level you are set at. So if you are on auto and the machine sets the sensitivity at say 12, then you will probably get 1 on that probe. If you are on manual at 27, you should get 2-3 on that probe. The Garrett will go deeper, but the probe will separate the good target from the iron so you dig towards the coin and not the nail. The Garrett will sound off on either of the co-exsisting targets and could result in you scratching the good target. If I had the Garrett, I would try the X-1 probe first in the hole, and if I didn't get a reading, I would use the Garrett. When the X-1 probe picks out the target, you will be sure it has the right one. Besides, there is something mesmerizing about staring at the screen and hearing that silver sound with the probe in the hole lol Ahhhh.... 12-46 :smitten:

Diggler
11-14-2010, 09:44 AM
Because you have to have the switch soldered in place on the upper shaft, your coil wire no longer goes inside the lower shaft. You have to wrap it around the lower shaft!! But after the switch is mounted on the upper shaft, it has to go back inside the shaft so that you can connect it to the inside of the machine. I don't like the exposed lower wire, but I do like how easy it is to swap coils, since I use a separate lower rod for each coil. Changes them in seconds!!

So there is no way to mod the shaft so that the wire can be internal? Since the upper shaft is being modified anyway, is it not possible to put another plug, or maybe a hole, or anything... to make this possible and still be sturdy?

Jason in Enid
11-14-2010, 10:14 AM
I'm sure you could try. You would have to cut a hole large enough for the connector to come out through. The worry would be that you would weaken the shaft with such a large hole, but I'm sure there are folks who know how to do it and reinforce it as needed. I just havent seen one done yet.

There's really nothing wrong with the wire on the outside. I have dedicated lower rods for each coil, so I ziptie the wire close to the bottom and then use the velcro to hold the wire at the top shaft.

coinnut
11-14-2010, 06:37 PM
I'm thinking of trying to dremel into the shaft and bring the wire back through the lower rod and then seal the top piece somehow. But I have to make sure the shafts will still collapse and the wire not get bunched up some how :confused: I'm not going to try it until detecting season is over though :cheesysmile: I have noticed more falsing when I hit some briars or bushes with the wire outside, but like Jason said, If you secure that wire tight, it probably doesn't false. Mine is sorta loose around the shaft.